United States | Alaska welcomes hooligans

In praise of the tiny, oily candlefish

Disrupted supply chains make a source of wild food even more welcome

Lockdown lovers
|KENAI, ALASKA

EACH SPRING Alaskans gather on riverbanks wearing chest waders and carrying long-handled nets in search of one of the earliest sources of wild foods in the year: silver, pencil-length smelts called hooligans that are the workhorse of marine food webs and an obsession of many state residents who, coming out of winter, are looking for fresh, local food.

This article appeared in the United States section of the print edition under the headline “Alaska welcomes hooligans”

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